Artificial grass installation depends entirely on what lies beneath it. The infill, base preparation, drainage system and finishing details determine whether your turf will look natural, drain properly, feel good underfoot, and last. This guide walks homeowners through each layer and explains what to ask for when you get a bid. Whether you are replacing a lawn that has turned to dust in Medford's hot summers, installing pet turf that will handle heavy use, or preparing a yard for a sale or event, understanding the foundation makes the difference between a turf installation that performs and one that fails within a season.
Medford's climate and soil make drainage and base prep non-negotiable. The Rogue Valley's heavy sticky clay soils hold water in winter and crack open in summer. Your artificial grass sits on top of this reality. A proper installation accounts for it, or you will end up with puddles, odor, and turf that lifts at the seams. This guide is for anyone in Medford and the surrounding areas who wants to know what happens before the turf goes down, what questions to ask, and how to verify that the work has been done right.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material spread across the top of artificial grass to prop up the fibres, protect the backing from UV light, add weight and stability, and help the turf drain. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic ballast that is inexpensive and effective. Silica does its job, but it is hard and can feel coarse underfoot, and it compacts over time. Coated sand, also called coloured sand or rounded sand, is silica that has been treated with a polymer coating or paint. The coating makes the grains rounder and smoother, which feels better on bare feet and in a dog's paws. Coated sand also holds colour and can be chosen to match the turf fibre.
Zeolite is a microporous mineral that absorbs odor and moisture, making it popular for pet turf and dog run installation. Zeolite does not eliminate odor on its own; it works alongside regular cleaning and proper drainage. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, combine a coating with additives designed to reduce bacteria growth and lower surface temperature. These products exist and can be sourced for installations where heat or odor control is a priority, though they cost more than basic silica. Crumb rubber (recycled rubber from tyres) is used in sports fields and playgrounds where impact protection is the main goal, but it is rarely chosen for residential yards because it retains heat, can stain, and carries odors in warm weather. Your infill choice depends on your use case, budget and local conditions.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified in pounds per square foot, and it is one of the most common places where cheap installations cut corners. The infill amount determines how well the turf fibres stay upright, how much UV protection the backing receives, and how effectively the turf drains and handles odor. Too little infill leaves fibres matted and backing exposed; too much can clog drainage and make the surface feel hard and unnatural. A typical residential installation uses between 1.5 and 3 pounds of infill per square foot, depending on the turf product, pile height, and intended use. Pet turf and play areas often sit at the higher end of that range. The exact figure depends on the product specification, which is why you should always ask for it in writing before work begins.
When you receive a bid, the infill amount should be stated as part of the written spec, along with the infill type. If a contractor cannot or will not give you this number, that is a red flag. The amount of infill affects the cost of the installation and the long-term performance of the turf. Asking for it in writing protects you and ensures that the installer knows what they are doing. If you are unsure whether a proposed amount is right for your project, call us for a free estimate and we can explain what your specific turf and use case require.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
Proper drainage starts before the turf goes down. The first step is to remove the existing lawn, old turf, roots and debris. In Medford, where lawns turn straw-brown in summer and soggy in winter, you are often working with either dead grass or compacted soil. Once the surface is cleared, the area is excavated to allow room for the base material. The depth depends on the site conditions and use, but typically three to four inches of compacted base is the target. A weed barrier, usually a landscape fabric, is laid after excavation to prevent weeds from growing up through the base and into the turf. The barrier sits on the subgrade, then the free-draining base material (usually decomposed granite or crushed base rock) goes on top and is compacted in layers.
After the base is compacted, an optional draining underlay or pad may be installed. This is especially important for pet areas, patios, balconies and play spaces, where extra cushioning and drainage are valued. The underlay sits on top of the compacted base, and the turf is laid over it. On hard surfaces like concrete or balconies, the sequence is different: the concrete stays in place, an edge drain or perimeter channel is installed to direct water away, then a draining underlay or pad is laid, and finally the turf. Never glue turf flat to a concrete slab that holds water; the water will pool beneath the turf, cause odor, and eventually damage the backing. If your yard already has a drainage issue, that problem must be solved first, or the new turf will fail in the same way the old lawn did.
Base Prep on Medford Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Medford sits on heavy sticky clay soils that drain poorly and crack wide open when dry. This soil type is the reason base preparation matters so much in the Rogue Valley. When you install artificial grass over uncompacted clay or unprepared ground, water does not drain away; it pools under the turf. Puddles form, odor develops, and the turf begins to lift at the seams. The base must be excavated, graded with a slope that directs water away from the house and any pool or patio, and compacted firmly. Typically, three to four inches of decomposed granite or crushed base rock is spread in lifts and compacted with a plate compactor after each lift. This creates a solid, well-draining foundation that prevents settling and keeps water moving away from the turf.
Compaction is not optional. An uncompacted base will shift and settle over time, creating dips and low spots where water collects and odor builds. In a pet area, this becomes a real problem fast. Before excavation begins, Oregon 811 utility locates should be requested to mark public utility lines. Private lines such as irrigation, low-voltage lighting and pet-fence wires are not marked by locates, so you should identify those yourself or let your installer know where they are. If your yard has a genuine water problem, poor drainage that affects the whole property, that drainage issue should be addressed before turf goes down. If we assess a site and find that the water problem is too large for a turf installation to solve, we will tell you that and recommend you speak with a grading or drainage specialist first. A turf installation cannot fix a broken gutter system or a yard that is lower than the surrounding grade.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass drainage is rated in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/SF). This number tells you how fast water moves through the turf backing. Most residential turf drains at 15 to 30 GPH/SF, which handles typical rain and garden watering. The real test of drainage comes in heavy downpours or in a pet area where urine is concentrated. A turf with a fully permeable backing drains faster than one with a perforated backing, but the turf backing is only one part of the drainage system. If the base underneath is compacted clay and does not drain, even the fastest turf will fail. Water has nowhere to go. This is why base preparation and turf drainage must work together. A fast-draining turf on a slow-draining base is like a gutter that works fine but has no downspout.
Underlays and pads add another layer to the drainage system. On a patio or balcony, an underlay sits between the hard surface and the turf, allowing water to flow to the edges and drain away. In a pet area, a pad adds cushioning and also improves drainage by creating space for water to move. The underlay or pad must have drainage specifications of its own. When you ask for a written spec, include the drainage rate of the turf backing and, if an underlay is being used, its drainage rate as well. Do not accept vague language like "good drainage" or "drains well." Ask for the number in gallons per hour per square foot, and ask how the base will be prepared to accept that drainage. If the contractor cannot answer these questions clearly, move on.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that separate a professional installation from a rushed one show up at the seams, edges and perimeter. Seams should be joined with seam tape and waterproof adhesive, with the grain of the turf aligned so the seam is nearly invisible. The tape is applied to the backing, the two pieces are pressed together, and the infill is brushed over the seam to hide it further. Nails or staples hold the turf down around the perimeter, spaced at intervals (typically 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the product) to prevent the edges from lifting. The perimeter is finished with bender board, a metal or plastic edging that is secured to the ground and keeps the turf from peeling back. On patios and pool surrounds, the turf is cut tight to pavers or cool deck material, and the edge is sealed or backed with bender board so water drains away and the turf does not fray.
After the turf is laid and the seams are set, power brooming is done to stand the fibres up and spread the infill evenly across the surface. This step makes a huge difference in appearance and performance. A visible seam, a lifted edge, or fibres that lie flat are signs that corners were cut. When you look at finished work, get down close to the seams and edges. Run your hand over the surface and feel for dips or areas where the infill is thin. Ask the installer to show you how they finished a seam and why they chose that method. A good installer will be happy to explain, because the seams and edges are where their skill shows.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should receive a written specification that covers every part of the installation. This spec is your protection and your proof that the installer knows what they are doing. It should include the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimetres, the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth, the compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be used, how seams will be joined, how the perimeter will be edged and secured, what cleanup and haul-off are included, and the workmanship warranty period. The spec should also note any special conditions, such as an underlay for a pet area or a draining pad for a patio.
A written spec is not a sales tool; it is a working document that guides the installation and protects both you and the installer. It prevents misunderstandings and gives you a standard to hold the work against when it is finished. If the turf does not perform as promised, the spec is the proof of what was promised. When you get bids, compare them spec to spec, not price to price alone. A lower price often means lower infill, thinner base, or shortcuts on seams and edges. Ask us for a free estimate and we will measure your yard on site, walk you through the options, and give you a detailed written spec before you decide. You can also visit our pricing page to understand the ranges for different applications in the Medford area.